Make Up Studio: Burns

Creating Burns

Products Used:

Latex

Tissues

Spirit Gum

Supracolour Palette

Ben Nye Bruise Wheel

Gelatine/ Gelglyk- Clear or Coloured

Hairdryer

Fine Liner Brush

Small Round Brush

1. To start the process, again check if your model is allergic to any of the products you are going to use.  Warm up the Gelglyk, take a plastic bowl and fill with some cold water, put this in the microwave for about 60 seconds for it to melt. 

2.  Take your gelatine out the microwave, shake the bottle, then test on your hand to see if it has melted enough.  You also want to check the temperature, as it may be too hot, therefore there is a safety hazard of burning your model.

3. Using pieces of roughly ripped up tissue, place these in the desired area and apply spirit gum over the top so that they stay in place.  Try not to flatten the tissue completely, leaving jagged edges will create the effect of singed skin. 

4. You can dry this with a hairdryer to speed up the process, always check the heat on your own skin before applying to your model.  Once this is dry, you can add more layers of tissue if you wish. 

5. Using the coloured Gelglyk, using a brush or tissue, apply over yur burn to create different shades and to create a shine. 

6. Next, take different shades of red, purple and black from your Supracolour palette and apply these to your burn to create a sore, fleshy effect.

7. You can also take clear Gelglyk, and apply this on the skin and over the burn to create the effect of blisters.  If you wish to create blisters, wait for the Gelglyk to harden slightly so that it stays in droplet form. 

8. Finish the burn off with some fake puss, to create a realistic weeping effect. 

Image Credit: Bryony Campbell

Make Up Studio: Scarring

Creating Scarring

Products Used:

 Collodion

 Clear Tuplast

Derma Shield

Fixer Spray

Ben Nye Bruise Wheels

Foundation palette

Hairdryer

Fine Liner Brush

1. Before you start creating your scarring, it is important to check that your model isn't allergic to any of the special effects products.  To do this, apply a little of the product to the wrist area, then wait a little while to see if they have any type of reaction.  If there is no reaction, you can carry on your Make Up application.  If your sitter does have a reaction, remove any products immediately. 

2. To start, apply a small amount of the derma shield around the area where you are going to create your scar.

3. Next, apply the Collodion onto the desired area and in the kind of shape you wish to create. Squeeze the skin either side of the collodion, it should stick together and create what looks like a scar . Dry this with a cool hairdryer, testing the heat on yourself before applying to your model. 

5. You can repeat this process various times, depending on how deep/old you want your scar to look.

6. Once you have created your scar, using a fine liner brush and a greasepaint palette, add a little colour to your scar to make it look more realistic.  Remember, however, to build the colour up slowly. 

Creating a scar using Tuplast:

1. Simply squeeze the tuplast onto the skin, into the desired shape.

2. Again, you can dry this with a hairdryer, or leave it to dry naturally.  Once it is dry, take your fine liner brush and greasepaint and add colour.  Using subtle red tones will create the most realistic scar.  You can also take a little bit of foundation and place around the edges to blend this into the normal skin.

3. When you have completed your scar, spray a little fixer over the scar and dry with a cool hairdryer. 

Image Credit: SFX Deep Scar - YouTube. (Online) Available at: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=emkvxraCkXQ. Accessed 26 February 2014.

Miss Havisham Timed Assessment Outcomes (1)

Today, I completed my first Miss Havisham Timed Assessment.  During two hours, we had to apply our Make Up and Hair Designs on our partners, and shoot the look also.

Head Shot

Profile Shot

Close Up Shot 

Overall, I was really pleased with how my design turned out.  The skin was pale with a slight grey tone, and the ageing lines were obvious but not too exaggerated, which is what I was aiming for.  I was also happy with the redness and soreness created around the eyes and especially the lips.  If I was to improve the look, I would add a slightly stronger contour to make the face look more gaunt, to emphasise Miss Havishams fatigue. 

Make Up Studio: Deep Wounds

Creating Deep Wounds

Products Used:

 Kryolan Supracolor Palette

      Vaseline

Ben Nye Bruise and Cut wheels

Plasto Wax

Sealer

Fake blood

Palette Knife

Wound filler

Stipple sponges

Round brush

Fine Liner brush

Flat brush

Creating a Deep Wound:

1. Remove some wax from its container using your palette knife, warm the wax up slightly on the back of your hand.

2. Place a small amount of wax onto the face and blend it upwards until it looks like it has disappeared. If the edges are looking a little bit thick, you can blend these out with some moisturiser.

3. After you have applied the wax to the face, take a small tool like a hair pin, and create the cut in the wax.  The 'cut' can be as shallow or deep as you want it to be.  For a deeper cut, you can also make the cut in the wax wider and more jagged. 

4. After you have created the desired effect, take your sealer and apply this over the wax with a cotton bud.  This will stop the wax falling off the face and secure it nicely.  Remember if you are working close to the eye, ask your model to keep their eyes shut while you apply this.

5. Allow the sealer to dry, to speed up this process, use a hairdryer.

6. Next you can apply some wound filler or blood onto the cut, add the blood little by little.

7. To create scratches, take your stipple sponge and apply some blood lightly around the cut.  If you want to create the effect of dripping blood, use a spray bottle and spray as much blood around the cut as desired.

Practising Miss Havisham's Sore Lips...

Two of my face charts incorporate dry, sore lips.  To get better at the look I wish to create, I thought I would practise creating the look at home. 

1. To start, I added a sheer laying of red from my Supra Colour Palette onto my lips using clean fingers, I found that using your fingers give you the best effect, as it doesn't give a perfect application like a brush would, and a messy look was what I was aiming for.  

2. Next, I applied duo glue all over the lips also using my fingers, applying it thicker in some places.  I then let this dry, you know when its dry when you can see no product, as the glue dries clear.

3. After this, I gently picked the glue creating tears and flakes which exemplifies what would be dry, cracked skin. 

4. To finish the sore looking skin,  I applied shades of red and black over the glue.  The red shows the current sore skin, and I found the black created the effect of dried blood. 

Practising my Miss Havisham Make Up Design...

Having designs my Miss Havisham Face Charts,  in preparation for my assessment I thought I would practise creating the look of my preferred final design.

I was really happy with how the look turned out, I like the grey tone to the skin and the redness around the eyes.  However, I would like to emphasise the age lines a little bit more and create a dryer, fuller lip. 

Incorporating Flowers into My Miss Havisham Re-Creation

As Miss Havisham was jilted at the alter, I thought about incorporating some kind of flowers into my design.  I thought of using flowers, as I'm sure she would have been carrying a bouquet.  Even though the flowers would have decayed over time, I still thought the idea of dead flowers would be really abstract and interesting, as dead flowers obviously symbolise the death of something…and in this case it is the death of Miss Havishams love.

Image Credit: (Online) Available at: http://www.pinterest.com/pin/507217976755011221/.  Accessed 17 February 2014.

This bouquet of flowers is the kind of thing that would be perfect to use as a prop.  The flowers aren't full of life and pretty, they are dead and dull, and don't look aesthetically pleasing.  This mirrors the traits and visual appearance of Miss Havisham. 

Image Credit:  Dead Roses | Flickr - Photo Sharing. (Online) Available at: http://www.flickr.com/photos/moofyboof/2990585558/.  Accessed 17 February 2014.

Roses in particular are the flowers I would like to use as a prop as they are supposed to symbolise love. The flowers in the above picture have died, so they look limp and dull, again just like Miss Havisham.  Using roses allows all the elements of Miss Havishams life to link together.

My Miss Havisham Face Charts

1. For my first Miss Havisham design I wanted to create quite an aged look, with extreme contouring to make the face look slim and gaunt from her malnutrition.  I would start the look with a pale base, adding ageing lines to the face too, as well as contouring the face with a shade of muddy brown to make the face look dirty, seeing as she has very poor hygiene.  To exemplify her struggle with love and heartache which would of caused her stress, therefore aged her quicker, I would add add lines on her forehead, crows feet around the eyes and fine lines around the mouth.  To create tired looking eyes, I would blend red and brown tones and apply to the upper lid and lower lash line, bringing the colour down to create bags.  To finish the look I would create sore lips, using duo glue to create the effect of cracked skin and sores. 

2.  This is my second design, and my favourite so far.  For this look, I wanted to create a really sore effect to the face, especially to the lips.  I came up with this idea not only because Miss Havisham would have been exposed to many different illnesses and diseases from her malnutrition but also because she may have been biting her lips over the years out of anticipation, and also because she couldn't express her heartache to anyone, it would have almost been like a nervous twitch.  I would start this look with a pale base that has a slight grey tint, this should create an ill looking Miss Havisham.  I would also contour and add age lines like my previous look.  This time I would intensify the red tones under the eyes, to make them look sore, I would add some vaseline to make them look puffy. To finish the looks, again I would use duo glue to create sores, I would create the redness using colours from my Supra Colour Palette. 

3. For my final idea I thought of creating a very dark look, using lots of greys and blacks, colours that are associated with darkness, much like Miss Havishams dark, dull life. I would still start with a pale base, but incorporate lots of blue and purple tones into this look.  I wouldn't add the cores to this idea, instead purely focusing on adding colour.  I decided to use blues and purples, this creates a cold effect, suggesting that Miss Havisham has been stuck in her home for too many years. 

Practising My Miss Havisham Hair Look...

My Miss Havisham hairstyle, incorporates a Frech Pleat, the classic Victorian style we have learnt, with lots of volume on top and at the front, with some cascading backcombed curls at the back and round the sides.

Step 1, curling and setting the hair. 

Step 2, unpinning the curls and brushing them through. 

Step 3, creating the French Pleat.

Step 4, creating volume and the front of the head.

Step 5, curling and backcombing the remaining hair. 

Make Up Studio: Creating the effect of Illness.

Having researched the various illnesses that were around during the Victorian Era, in this weeks practical with Sue, we were taught how to create the effect of Fever.  I really enjoyed this Special Effects lesson, and I really feel like it will benefit m greatly when it comes to creating my Miss Havisham character.

Creating Fever

Products Used:

Kryolan Supracolor Palette

Duo Glue

Glycerine

Translucent Powder

Water Spray

Stipple Sponges

Round Brush

Sue's Demo

1.  To start the look make sure the face is thoroughly cleansed and moisturised, there is no need to apply a base for this look and we want our models to look pale, to add to the 'ill' look. 

2.  Take your Supracolor Palette, and apply a reddish tone underneath the eye with a small round brush, apply this right up to the bottom docket of the eye and blend well.  You can blend with your fingers as long as they are clean, if you're having difficulty blending the product, take a little bit of moisturiser to help you blend. 

3.  Next, take a brown shade from the palette and use this to enhance the bone structure of the face.  You want to place this colour under the cheek bones, down the sides of the nose, around the temples and under the jaw.  Make sure this brown colour is obvious, but blended out very well. 

4.  To add an ill flush to the face, I mixed the two shades of red from the palette on the back of my hand and dabbed this onto the face with my fingers, I also applied this to the forehead and to the neck.  Add this slowly, building up as you go along to create the most realistic look possible. 

5.  To create the effect of dry, cracked lips, Sue taught us a new method of using Duo Glue.  Duo Glue dries clear and allows you to manipulate it after to create cracks.  Ask you model to shut their mouth, the take some duo glue with a small brush or a cotton bud and apply this where necessary to the lips.  After the glue had dried, I ripped it slightly, being careful of my models lips underneath.  To make the lips look sore, I took a red colour from my Supracolor Palette and applied this lightly over the glue.  You can also add some powder the make them look very dry. 

6.  To finish the look,  I took my stipple sponge and dabbed some glycerine on the face to give the effect of sweating.  I also took a water spray and sprayed this around the hairline, to wet the hair as this is a place sweat is often most prominent. 

Miss Havisham Hair Inspiration 2- Pinterest.

To some more Miss Havisham Hair Inspiration I turned to Pinterest for some abstract and unique ideas.

Image Credit: Gorgeous Marie Antoinette inspired wedding ... | Miss Havisham Hair I…. (Online) Available at: http://www.pinterest.com/pin/507217976755011278/.  Accessed 17 February 2014.

I really like the idea of incorporating flowers into part of my Miss Havisham look.  I am undecided whether to use them as a prop or incorporate them into the hair, so I thought I would look at some hairstyles that incorporate flowers.  My favourite use of flowers is definitely within an undo, it really enhances the softness of the style.  However if I was to add flowers, I would create a more eccentric up do to mirror Miss Havishams wild personality. 

Image Credit 1: Bordello hairstyle. | Miss Havisham Hair Inspiration . (Online) Available at: http://www.pinterest.com/pin/507217976755011291/.  Accessed 17 February 2014.

Image Credit 2: Elizabeth I tudor style ruff and costume in ... | Miss Havisham Hair …. (Online) Available at: http://www.pinterest.com/pin/507217976755011328/.  Accessed 17 February 2014.

I gathered these images as I really like the idea of using soft curls, to add an elegant, bridal touch to a messy hairstyle.  Miss Havishams style would have definitely decayed over the years, but to add the remaning elements of her wedding day I would add some soft curls round the sides of the face. 

Image Credit: Masked Beauty | Miss Havisham Hair Inspiration . (Online) Available at: http://www.pinterest.com/pin/507217976755011340/.  Accessed 17 February 2014.

This style shows the kind of eccentric and decaying elements I want to add to my Miss Havisham styles.  Overall I want a polished style, where you can see the detail, however I will pull strands of hair out the style to create a wispy, messy look. 

Miss Havisham Make Up Inspiration 2- Pinterest and Own Experiments.

To gather more inspiration for my Miss Havisham Make Up, I have been finding Pinterest really interesting. The pictures below show a few ideas of the components I have in mind for my final Miss Havisham look. 

Image Credit: Daphne Selfe - model. Aged 81 She does not ... | Miss Havisham Make …. (Online) Available at: http://www.pinterest.com/pin/507217976755011306/.  Accessed 17 February 2014.

This image caught my eye as I don't want my Miss Havisham to look too theatrically aged, I thought this was a good example of the skin looking slightly aged, but not overly dramatic.  The main elements I want to add are a grey tone to the skin, and extreme contouring to make the face look gaunt and ill.  The fine lines are around the mouth, and the model does have slight crows feet which I would like to add to my model. 

Image Credit: Victorian Gothic | Miss Havisham Make Up Inpiration. (Online) Available at: http://www.pinterest.com/pin/507217976755011337/.  Accessed 17 February 2014.

This image is an example of the gaunt look I want to achieve for my re-creation of Miss Havisham. I will use dark browns to contour under the cheek bones, and anywhere where the bone structure could be enhanced to make the face look ill and slim.  

Image Credit:  Sfx makeup. | Miss Havisham Make Up Inpiration. (Online) Available at: http://www.pinterest.com/pin/507217976755011309/.  Accessed 17 February 2014.

These images portray an idea that I came up with, the idea that Miss Havisham has been in silence for many years about being jilted at the alter.  I thought this idea would be really interesting, not only are the lips sore from her malnutrition, but they are stitched together…meaning she has never been able to express her feelings to the outside world. 

These dry lips were actually created by myself using Duo Lash Glue.  I really liked this idea and will definitely be using this for my Final Miss Havisham look.  The idea behind the dry lips was not only the fact that Miss Havisham is extremely malnourished, but also the fact she may have been biting her lips in anticipation for many years, as she has not been able to visit the outside world, or talk to anyone about her feelings. 

Victorian Make Up/ Miss Havisham Make Up Inspiration...

The Gibson Girl is widely considered to be the first ‘pin-up girl’ of the Victorian Era. Created by illustrator Charles Dana Gibson in the 1890s, images of the 'Gibson Girl' portrayed the ideal feminine beauty of the Victorian Era. 

Image Credit: (Online) Available at: http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/ef/Gibson_Girl_by_Charles_Dana_Gibson.jpg. [Accessed 09 February 2014].

These women sported soft hair, which was piled upon the head in a soft bouffant style that executed effortless beauty.  During the Victorian times, heavy make up was seen as promiscuous, it was definitely not the norm. For this reason, make up was only really worn by actresses and prostitutes. Subtle, natural beauty was favoured for the everyday women.

Alabaster white skin was extremely popular during this era. Women shielded their skin from the sun by wearing delicate gloves and using parasols. Pale skin was desired, as it sybolised class and wealth.  Women rarely wore make up, except from a little powder to keep the face from looking too shiny. Eyeshadow and Lipstick, were extremely natural and often in nude coloured shades.

Image Credit: Victorian Makeup Styles Image Gallery | vintage makeup guide. (Online) Available at: http://vintagemakeupguide.com/victorian-look/. [Accessed 09 February 2014].

Illnesses during the Victorian Era...

Seeing as Miss Havisham was stuck in her house for many years, with no access to sunlight and barely any food, I'm sure she was very malnourished and prone to many different illnesses.  To get an idea of the illnesses and the symptoms that may have effected her appearance, I thought I'd do some research. 

Typhoid: 

Typhoid fever is a bacterial infection that can spread throughout the body, affecting many organs. Without prompt treatment it can cause serious complications and can be fatal.

Before the discovery of microbes and germs, there were so many conflicting theories about diseases and what may have caused them. Most people in the Victorian Era got Typhoid from contaminated water from sewers etc, and if you didn’t know enough to keep yourself clean, you’d end up passing it on too.  Typhoid affects your organs, therefore it would make you look gaunt, skinny and extremely dehydrated and malnourished giving a grey tone to the skin, it also causes rashes on the skin, made up of lots of little red and pink dots. 

Smallpox:

Smallpox is a contagious, disfiguring and often deadly disease that has affected humans for thousands of years.  There's no treatment or cure for smallpox.  Smallpox causes many clusters of sore, red blisters. 

Victorian Hairstyles/ Miss Havisham Hair Inspiration...

Image Credit: (Online) Available at: http://reapergrellsutcliff.tumblr.com/post/63026122516/mun-i-just-wanted-to-clarify-on-my-last-ask-can-i.  Accessed 08 February 2014.

The elegant and elaborate hairstyles fashionable in Victorian times are famous for their beauty and intricate details.  However, their hair was never cut except in cases of serious illness, so their hair was often severely damaged and looked very straggly, just like Miss Havishams style.  The simplicity of the smooth, centre-parted styles worn by women in the Victorian era lasted until the 1870s, after this a lot more styles were created including, waves, curls and plaits.  This is when the 'Marcel Wave' became popular,  this was created using a heated iron that imitated the natural curl of the hair. Hot tongs were applied to produce a curl rather than a crimp.

Image Credit: (Online) Available at: http://mute-the-silence.blogspot.co.uk/2011/12/victorian-hair-styles.html. [Accessed 08 February 2014].

Curly hair was meant to indicate a sweeter temperament, while straight-haired girls were considered reserved, quiet and awkward.  Later on in the Victorian Era, women started loosely tying their hair in buns and plaits, loosely tied with a ribbon.  This was to signify that they may have been going to an important event,  maybe a wedding?  This made me think that maybe Miss Havisham could have incorporated some ribbon or hair jewellery into the hair style for her wedding day.

Image Credit: (Online) Available at: http://mute-the-silence.blogspot.co.uk/2011/12/victorian-hair-styles.html. [Accessed 08 February 2014].

Victorian Hair Jewellery

Image Credit: Heathen Jeweler. (Online) Available at: http://heathenjeweler.wordpress.com/category/vinyl-record/. [Accessed 08 February 2014].

Image Credit: Gothic Lolita Jewelry - Neo Victorian Cameo Hair Combs | Ghostlove Jewelry. (Online) Available at: http://ghostlove.com/products/neo-victorian-cameo-hair-combs-silver. [Accessed 08 February 2014].

My Take on a French Pleat 2… Romantic.

When I think of the word 'Romantic', soft waves, loose curls and pretty accessories come to mind.  Romance also reminds me of love, therefore I would imagine that Miss Havisham would of chosen a romantic hairstyle for her wedding, even if it doesn't look that way from her portrayal in Great Expectations, but you have to remember she was jilted at the alter.  To me, a French Pleat seems to be quite a 'Romantic' style anyway.  To emphasise this even further, I first loosened the French Pleat a little from the back and sides. 

After I had created the loose French Pleat, I took sections at the front of the head, and loosely curled these bits of hair.  I think that hair around the face really softens the style and creates a more elegant look than if the hair was pulled away from the face.  To add another 'Romantic' touch,  I cut up some red ribbon, created small bows and secured these at the side of the French Pleat with bobby pins to create a pretty, feminine accessory. 

My Take on a French Pleat…Eccentric.

So after we learnt how to create a French Pleat in our workshop with Seema, we were told to go away and create our own versions of a French Pleat, however…incorporating elements from the words we had previously researched styles for.

Eccentric:

First of all I created a basic french pleat, which on its own looks very feminine, soft and tidy. When researching Eccentric hairstyles on Pinterest, big shapes and messy styles were the main things that stood out to me. I think if you were to look at this style as a silhouette, the wispy hair would create an abstract image.  So to create an Eccentric take on a french pleat, I left the back of the french pleat fairly tidy, but created a lot of messy volume and shape at the front of the head, as I also thought this linked in with Miss Havishams unpolished overall style.  The front of the style also doesn't have a very structured shape, its uneven and unusual, which reflects Miss Havishams personality.