Make Up Studio: Ageing the skin, Latex and Wrinkle Stipple

During our practical with Sue this week we focused on ageing the skin, as well as creating wrinkles using Wrinkle Stipple.  Ageing the skin was really interesting as with only a small amount of product you can really transform the face, however when it came to using wrinkle stipple, this was a little bit harder to master. As the product was so sticky, layering it became hard as the product would start to rise from the skin, I think practise makes perfect with this mastering this product!

Ageing the Skin

Products Used:

Kryolan Foundation Pallette

Illamasqua Rich Liquid Foundation in White

Derma Colour Concealer Pallette

Illamasqua Translucent Powder

Foundation Brush

Buffing Brush

Powder Brush

Fine Liner Brush

Blending Brush

1.  Having made sure you have clean hands and a tidy work surface, prep the skin as usual using a suitable Cleanser, Toner and Moisturiser.  Skin Prep is so important as it gives you a smooth, clean base to work on. 

2.  Start the Make Up Application by finding a suitable foundation colour for your model, the best place to test foundation colours is around the jawline.  When you have found a suitable colour, apply this lightly to the face, I first applied the foundation with a standard foundation brush, then went on to buff this in with a duo-fibre buffing brush.  Take the foundation right up to the hairline, over the eyelids and over the lips.  Applying the foundation over the lips helps to create a dry, cracked effect.

3.  It is optional whether you powder the skin or not, this depends whether you would like a matte or a dewy effect.  I chose to powder the skin to create a more dryer out effect to the skin.

4.  The next step is to start creating the aged effect, choose a colour one or two shades darker than your models skin tone (preferably with a brown/grey tone). Ask your model to frown, squint and scrunch their face…this will allow you to see where their crease lines naturally sit, with a fine brush start filling these lines in with the darker colour.  These lines should appear on the forehead, around the lips, eyes and between the eyebrows.  Make sure you blend these lines with a blending brush or your finger so they don't look too harsh.

5.  As well as these crease lines, place the darker colour under the eyes, down the sides of the nose and under the cheekbones to hollow the face out.  This creates a gaunt, slim effect. 

6.  After you have added the darker colour into the necessary places, you can also take a lighter concealer and highlight just above these to really emphasise the darkness.

7.  Finally, brush through the eyebrows with a greyish/white colour and leave them looking slightly messy, I used my Supracolour Pallette to do this. This will create the effect of grey hairs, and an untamed style.

Half of the face has been aged and the other half left as normal.

Using Wrinkle Stipple:

Image Credit: (Online) Available at: http://www.barnes.com.au/catalog/productimager/wrinkle_stipple_2oz-e39985256342063a73ddf95ca12087bb4e40ea74.jpg. Accessed 29 January 2014.

Products Used:

Ben Nye Wrinkle Stipple
Flat Sponge
Hair Dryer

The aim of using Ben Nye's 'Wrinkle Stipple' is to create subtle wrinkle effects, primarily around the eyes, mouth and forehead.  Before using wrinkle stipple on any of your clients, always do a  latex test, as some people may react to the latex ingredients in this product.

1. If you are working around your models eyes, always remember to ask your model to close their eyes before applying the product.  Take a small amount of the wrinkle stipple on a sponge, stretch the skin and dab gently around the outsides of the eyes, lips etc.
2. Take your hairdryer, making sure that it is on a warm heat, but also checking that it is not too hot on yourself before using on your client, dry the wrinkle stipple.
3. Once the first layer in dry, follow the same process.  Create a few layers of the wrinkle stipple.
4. After you have created your layers, gently pinch/push your models skin together to create folds in the skin.
5. Do this as many times until you get your desired effect.
6. If you want to bring out the effect further, take a little bit of translucent powder and brush this over the tops of the skin folds.